cannabisnews.com: Stoned or Sober, Nimbin is a Trip










  Stoned or Sober, Nimbin is a Trip

Posted by FoM on December 28, 1999 at 08:34:33 PT
By Cornelia Grumman, Chicago Tribune  
Source: Star-Telegram 

This tiny mecca of psychedelia, the "Hippie Capital of Australia," sits along Australia's blue highways, nestled amid rolling hills bearing mangoes, avocados, lychees and -- perhaps its most distinctive crop -- marijuana. Since carving its countercultural identity in 1973 with the Nimbin Aquarius Festival, modeled after Woodstock, the once desolate bush village is burgeoning with hippies, mystics, artists, backpackers, entrepreneurs, farmers, drug addicts, misfits and other lost souls.
At least 10,000 live in or around the New South Wales town of Nimbin. Most reside in the 62 communes surrounding the village, though others live out of tepees, tents, vans or campers. Few people actually are from here; many come in with the wind and end up staying either because they have nowhere else to go or because no one is kicking them out."We're all dropouts on one level or another, mostly," concedes Michael Balderstone, 51, who would be considered a town elder if Nimbin were the kind of place that conferred titles."People realize Nimbin is the last bus stop, it's the end of the road. It's a very tolerant, accepting community. That means we've also got junkies, we've got alcoholics, we've got mad people. It's inevitable."And at the end of the century, Nimbin is expecting so many more of all varieties that town organizers, in a rare effort at restraint, are trying to downplay its New Year's Eve celebrations.At sunset, village folk will be invited to write down everything about their past they wish to leave behind, from bad memories to regrets, and drop them into a paper "Old Man Millennium" as he is paraded through town. At midnight, Old Man will be ceremoniously set afire amid a circle of tepees in the town's Peace Park.Stoned or sober, Nimbin is a trip.It takes less time to get from one end of town to the other than it does to smoke a joint, which is what just about everyone is doing openly, not to mention illegally, as they hang out in cafes, in the Hemp Embassy or in the Peace Park, seeking new dimensions.Nimbin has become such a colorful spectacle that now a new population is flocking here for a gander: Tourists. These gawkers, and the money they bring, are both a blessing and a curse for the former cattle and dairy town that verged on extinction just three decades ago.No one denies that tourists have helped revive Nimbin. The hippie population lives largely impoverished, with an estimated one-third to half dependent on welfare assistance. Much of the other half, police suspect, survive on the marijuana economy. But the potential of luring ever more easy money has presented a kind of Faustian dilemma to townsfolk, whose lifestyle is founded on the principle of eschewing materialism.Being free takes discipline, acknowledges resident George Forsyth. It's already a trick to keep a household afloat on organically-grown food, solar power and well water.Woodstock may have been born of an era marked by controversial military involvement in Vietnam, racial strife and repressive social attitudes , but one senses Australia's hippies have to look harder to find things against which to rebel.And while Forsyth mumbles something about revolution while lighting up a joint, this prospect, too, appears somewhat elusive, given the generally friendly and laid-back nature of his Australian environs. Even on the road into Nimbin, highway construction signs express "regret" for any inconvenience to drivers, while sign holders smile and nod at passing cars.The "injustices" Nimbins do manage to find often lack the power to galvanize.Before Nimbin's annual Mardi Grass festival last May, police staged a helicopter raid on local pot growers and made a series of arrests "to send a message," according to Nimbin Police Sgt. Neville Plush.In protest of such "Rambo tactics," residents of the town organized and marched down the main drag, Cullen Street, toward the tiny, four-officer police station to stage a smoke-in. But by the time marchers reached the station, they had forgotten their cause."It turned around from being a demonstration against the highway patrol, to saying `No Bombs in Bosnia,"' Plush laughs, shaking his head. "They completely lost the focus."Among the town's longtime activists is Michael Balderstone, director of the Nimbin Museum in the center of town, where visits are more far out than historical.From the ceiling of the cavernous museum's entrance hangs about three dozen rusty hand egg beaters. "To stir things up," explains barefoot tourist-greeter "Chicken George," 59, absurdly dressed in a furry green, black and white domed cap. (On other days he dresses as a hemp plant.)Inside the museum is hippie chaos: painted halves of Volkswagen buses; protest materials against mining, forestry and nuclear power; tie-dye clothing; fantastical bongs, or marijuana pipes, and piles of junk that could only be explained by someone's bad drug experience."It was because more tourists were coming that we thought, let's make something to explain, `What's this freak show all about?' " says Balderstone as he sits on the floor of the "Hemp Embassy" across the street from the museum, rolling a joint.Every May, Nimbin sponsors Mardi Grass, a celebration of all things hemp. Organized by the Hemp Embassy, the confab features a drug reform parade led by an 11-yard-long mock joint, pot judging contests, rallies, concerts and smoke-ins promoting the legalization of marijuana.While Sydney hosts next year's summer Olympic Games, Nimbin stages its own version, called the Hemp Olympix. "Athletes" compete in hemp cord tug-o-wars, bong throwing contests and joint rolling competitions, where judges score for speed and creativity.Visitors to the Hemp Embassy may purchase items of clothing made from hemp, hemp string, hempseed oil soap, hemp jewelry, literature about hemp, hemp calendars and the Hemp Manifesto."The Australian Cannabis Cookbook" contains recipes for everything from Disorderly Meatloaf (1 packet onion soup mix, 1 can whole peeled tomatoes, ˝ cup chopped cannabis and 1 kilogram of ground beef) to Gone Bananas Loaf.Up a step in the rear of the storefront is a rag-tag lounge area, where locals gather on Fridays to discuss hemp and new strategies to legalize it. "You should come," clerk Robert Long drawls to a visitor in his slow-motion, Down Under baritone. "But we're staying hippie, so we usually don't start on time."With nothing but time on their hands, locals wander in and out, plopping themselves onto the stained and ripped upholstery, picking up on conversations without formal entry, rolling joints and sharing them openly. "Like a bud?" plays differently here than "Like a Bud?" does in mainstream culture.While early hippie settlers such as Graeme Dunstan continue striving to create a utopian sense of community -- on this day he's rushing to school to get children to help him build hundreds of paper lanterns for the New Year's celebration -- Nimbin's very alternativeness also attracts ever larger numbers of do-nothing drug zombies.And as much as many here defend adult drug use as the pathway to greater consciousness and harmony, they also live every day with its dangers.Overdoses have become so common, particularly in the last decade with increasing numbers of heroin users and other addicts pouring into Nimbin, that the local hospital donated a stretcher to the museum.Whenever a drug emergency arises, townsfolk cry "Overdose!" and rush for the stretcher. Addict in tow, they charge down the street to the tiny Nimbin Hospital roughly 200 yards away. Hospital workers said they listen for the shouting, then rush out to take over stretcher duties as they haul the patient inside.In a good week, the town sees only one overdose, Plush said. In others, there might be as many as three or four.The hospital distributes, free for the asking, small black boxes containing five syringes, alcohol swabs and a built-in needle disposal. Vending machines behind one of the town's two community centers also sell syringes and condoms for $1.Hospital nurses say they rarely see cases of HIV, and attribute this to the free needle exchange program.Drug counselors abound in Nimbin, and a new program started this month will offer ear acupuncture to help addicts through rehabilitation.Sgt. Plush calls it an "impossible situation" to police Nimbin. Far from taking a zero tolerance approach, officers have learned to look the other way in all but the most serious cases. If they wanted to strictly uphold the law, Plush said, the town's four officers could spend all their time and buckets of money making fish-in-barrel arrests of pot smokers.Instead, police have developed a wary but respectful relationship with the hippies, many of whom have a revolving door relationship with the local jail."They know if we come down (and see them smoking), if they're caught, they usually realize we have a job to do," Plush says.Police now have to spend more time on increased incidents of violence and theft, which Plush attributes to the rise in heroin users.Many children growing up in Nimbin are so turned off by the sight of junkies on the streets "that most of them end up little capitalists," said Vicki Hughes, 40, a Nimbin Hospital nurse who described the village's main school as first rate.On the other hand, so distinctive are some children of hippies that Australians even have a name for them: ferals. Ask anyone about ferals, and they describe barefoot, dreadlocked, militantly vegan vegetarians who live out of tepees and have wild looks in their eyes.Not all Nimbins are hippies. The New Age types coexist with older natives such as Eric Bazanna. Bazanna, 64, runs the feed and produce shop at the edge of town, up a short hill overlooking the banana and cattle fields his family used to farm 50 years ago.While he doesn't approve of every aspect of hippie culture, Bazanna acknowledges they have brought new life to Nimbin."A lot of the alternative lifestylers here are very educated and intelligent people, and they've probably improved things because they diversified the culture," he said. "Then you have people who are drug dependent, they have no purpose in life and are sort of a drain."1999, Chicago Tribune. Visit the Chicago Tribune on America Online (keyword: Tribune) or the Internet Tribune at: http://www.chicago.tribune.com/Distributed by Knight Ridder/Tribune Information Services.Published: December 27, 1999The Associated Press Related Article & Web Site:Mardigrass Web Sitehttp://main.nrg.com.au/~hemp/All Hippie Retrospectacle Thriving Down Underhttp://cannabisnews.com/news/thread4075.shtml

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